The Out-Islands of the Bahamas are definitely "off the beaten
track". More well known perhaps to delivery captains and Christopher
Columbus buffs rather than Charter Yachts. These islands arguably represent
the best that the Bahamas has to offer in the way of seclusion (dare I say
isolation..??). These are some of the best known: Eleuthera, Cat Cay, San
Salvador, Mayaguana, Acklins Island, Crooked Island and Great Inagua.
Both Rum Cay and especially Samana Cay and San Salvador have been
involved in the perpetual Christopher Columbus debate as to where the
intrepid explorer landed first.
Only 80-miles long and 4-miles wide, Long Island is one of the most
scenic hideaways in The Out-Islands of The Bahamas, famous for its
world-class scuba diving and bonefishing. The island is divided by the
Tropic of Cancer and is bordered on each side by two contrasting coasts,
one with soft-white beach, and the other with rocky headlands that descent
into the sea and serve as boundaries for the crashing waves. The topography
of the island varies as well - from sloping hills in the northeast to low
hillsides in the south to stark white flatlands to swampland to pristine
beaches, all of which combine to create a picturesque landscape and an
ideal haven for visiting yachts, seamen, sun-lovers and vacationers alike.
Long Island was originally named Yuma by the Lucayan Indians and was
renamed Fernandina by Christopher Columbus upon his third landfall in the
New World. Then, in 1790, Loyalists from the Carolinas and their slaves
settled Fernandina. They built large plantations and produced sea-island
cotton until the abolition of slavery, which made them unprofitable.
Today, many of the Loyalist mansions still stand as a reminder of the
island's past. Although the plantations are overgrown and non-productive,
agriculture is still a very important part of life. Pothole farming, which
is a method that utilised fertile holes in the limestone where fertile
topsoil collects, yields much of the food supply for the other islands,
including peas, corn, pineapples and bananas. Raising sheep, goats and pigs
is also popular amongst Long Islanders.
Pace of life has not changed much from Long Island's deep past. The
carriage road, built more than a century ago, is lined by the island's
major settlements of Burnt Ground, Simms, Wood Hill, Clarence Town, Roses
and South Point, all situated around the island's harbours and anchorages
Little-known Acklins and Crooked Island lie next to each other and are
connected by ferry. They are an escapist's dream with endless beautiful
beaches lapped by aquamarine water. These waters are popular with the more
adventurous tarpon and bonefishermen, as well as with divers, as a 50 mile
barrier reef rings the islands. Crooked Island is the main island of the
two, with most of the sparse population living in and around the capital of
Colonel Hill. Experienced birders also know that the undisturbed wooded
areas are a popular resting place for numerous species, including the ever
elusive hummingbird.
Crooked Island, approximately 200 miles southeast of Nassau, is one of
three major islands called The Crooked Island District. At the southeastern
tip of Crooked Island, a ferry transports visitors across the ocean to the
exotic Acklins Island - also part of The District - where gentle hills as
well as the colorful scattering of the purple, green and blue houses make
Acklins Islands a very unique site within The Islands of The Bahamas.
According to Bahamian historians, when Columbus was sailing down the
Crooked Island Passage, the sweet aroma of native herbs and flowers drifted
out to his ship and delighted his senses. Soon after The Crooked Island
District developed the nickname the "fragrant islands." However,
it was not until the end of the 18th century that the first-known settlers,
British Loyalists, actually stepped foot on Crooked Island. These Loyalists
established almost 50 cotton plantations, but in 1820 the plantations were
ruined because the crops were destroyed by blight and poor soil conditions.
Those remaining were able to survive by adapting to fishing and small-scale
farming. In addition, since the middle of the 18th century, Crooked
Islanders have been stripping the Croton Cascarilla shrub and shipping the
Cascarilla bark to Italy to be used as flavouring for the famous Campari
liquor.
Some interesting structures, old plantation houses and the like, still
remain on Crooked Island. The ruins, preserved by the Bahamas National
Trust, overlook Crooked Island Passage, which separates Crooked Island from
Long Cay, the third island in the Acklins-Crooked Island chain.
Yet another interesting spot to explore is Crooked Island Caves. These
are dark passageways, which widen into gaping chambers and embrace speckles
of sunlight that poke through holes from above.
Built in the north the glistening Bird Rock Lighthouse on Crooked Island
is a popular nesting spot for ospreys and acts as a guard to the Crooked
Island Passage, one of the most important sea passages for ships, which
follow the southerly route to the Panama Canal. The Castle Island.
The ultimate desert island dream, Mayaguana makes Crooked Island and
Acklins look busy! Similarly, Jumento Cays and Ragged Island, to the west
of Acklins, are isolated with just a few inhabitants who make their living
from fishing.
Inagua's pristine environment is home to an exotic variety of wildlife
and is one of the largest breeding destinations of the West Indian flamingo
in the western hemisphere. The flamingo was saved from near extinction 30
years ago by The Bahamas National Trust, with help from The National
Audubon Society. Today, more than 80,000 flamingoes live primarily in
Inagua National Park. Visitors can witness the spectacle of nesting
flamingoes, see adults standing guard over fluffy white chicks or feeding
on tasty shrimp. The flamingo mating season runs October through February
and the nesting season is March through April.
The island is also home to many water birds including the unusual
roseate spoonbill, pelicans, herons, egrets, black-necked stilts and
Bahamas pintail ducks. One of the most exotic birds in Inagua is the
endangered Bahama parrot that feeds among the Inagua oak trees and are a
vibrant green color with a whitehead camouflage. Visitors to the park may
be lucky to see the Bahama woodstar, a dazzling endemic humming bird that
is not found anywhere else in the world.
Other wondrous sights include burrowing owls, American kestrels in
courtship displays, and ospreys. In the fall and winter many North American
birds escape from the cold to Inagua. The most famous of these are the
endangered Kirtland's warblers that travel from their Michigan nesting
grounds.
In addition to the exotic variety of birds, visitors can see feral
donkeys and endangered freshwater turtles. Accompanied by experienced
guides, travelers can explore Inagua's limestone caves and enjoy fabulous
beaches and snorkelling.
Inagua, mostly flat and scrub, is the third-largest island in The
Islands of the Bahamas. The national park's 287 square miles account for
almost half the island and is dominated by Lake Windsor. About 1,000 people
live on Inagua whose capital, Matthew Town, is on the southwest coast.
